The Invention of the Baby Carrot
Selected excerpts:
The year is 1986, and you operate one of the largest carrot farms and processing plants in California. The weather is beautiful, your farm is vast, and business is good. Life is perfect except for one thing: every day, you need to throw out tons of the vegetables you worked so hard to grow, because they just aren’t pretty enough to sell.
Up to 400 tons of them, actually – up to 70% of each haul. That’s multiple blue whales’ weight in carrots, every single day. This is the position carrot farmer and producer Mike Yurosek found himself in.
Today, the supermarket produce section is a highly curated window into the American farm – the towering pile of onions has made it through a rigorous and somewhat questionable battery of selection criteria. As former farmer, and PhD student Anna Lee wrote for the Washington Post:
“Some criteria are rightly based on food-safety and shelf-life considerations, but many are manifestations of misguided normative ideas about what produce should look like. Cucumbers should be straight, cauliflower florets should be tightly held, and rhubarb stalks should be ruby red. If not, retailers tell farmers, consumers won’t buy them.”
It’s been like that for quite a while, basically as long as we’ve had supermarkets.
Yurosek tried to be resourceful. He used some of his cull as animal slop, but his farm was so big and he had so much waste – 400 tons a day – that his pigs’ fat turned orange. He went on this way for decades, enduring the daily tragedy of the cull, and dreaming of a better world.
Then, in 1986, he had an idea. Frozen food processors chopped up their vegetables, including carrots, before freezing them. Pea-sized carrot cubes tossed in with peas. Crinkly-cut carrot coins. This was partially because a solid frozen carrot is a pretty inconvenient item – it would take forever to thaw. But Yurosek also realized this meant frozen food processors got away with using irregular produce. “If they can do that,” he thought, “Why can’t we, and pack 'em fresh?”
He got to work prototyping. The first batch he tossed into an industrial potato peeler, and then sliced up by hand. When a local frozen foods processor was going out of business, he got a deal on their old green bean cutter, which was made to clip green beans down into smaller pieces. He found that one of the most aesthetic cuts was to put them through the green bean cutter first, and then through the potato peeler. The result was a 2-inch, skin-free, slightly rounded stub of carrot – a close cousin to the baby carrot of today. (Baby carrots are also sometimes called “baby cut carrots” in order to distinguish them from carrots that are literally immature or naturally dwarf.)
I’d never really thought of how a lot of the snack-sized carrots came to be. If you had asked me before, I would have said they were just picked before reaching full maturity, as some are.
Come to think of it - I can’t say I’ve ever run across bacon marbled with orange fat. What do they do with carrot fed pigs?